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This is my travel blog. I am new to blogging and wish I had blogged many of my early years of travel. They say it is never too late to try something, though. Maybe I will blog backwards chronologically.

Friday 20 January 2012

Dehradun: Jhanda Sahib

Dehradun suddenly, after all of these years staying at and visiting Haridwar, has come onto my horizon. For one thing, it has the best hospital in the region so this is where I come for a check up. But this New Year's day, I had the the good fortune to visit the Ram Rai Gurdwara built in the time of Aurangzeb and the Tibetan Buddhist Mindrolling Monastery, with its giant Stupa built as recently as 2002.

The town itself was founded in the early 18th century by Ram Rai, the elder son of the 7th Sikh Guru Har Rai, who came to the area in 1675.  Dehra refers to a settlement or camp, and Dun refers to a river valley between a smaller mountain range (the Shivaliks) and the main Himalayas.

Sikh Guru Har Rai died in 1661, leaving behind two sons, Ram Rai and Harkishen.  Both claimed succession, but because Ram Rai wa the son of a handmaiden, Harkishen was preferred over his brother.  Ram Rai however, did not accept this and there was so much animosity that the issue was referred to the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb for arbitration, who also cast his vote in favour of Harkishen and sent Ram Rai away. Harkishen died in 1664 and was succeeded by his uncle Tegh Bahadur who, eventually was arrested and executed in 1675.....Emperor Aurangzeb advised Ram Rai to retire to the wildeness and stop meddling in public affairs or face the same fate as his uncle. So Ram Rai resided for a short time at Kandli on the Tons and then camped in Kharbara, while searching for a suitable location to settle.  He pitched a Jhanda, tied to a javelin and the spot in the village Dhamwala, where his javelin pierced the earth became the dera (base camp) of the guru, known as Jhanda Sahib.  Marking this base camp is the Gurdwara called Ram Rai Darbar, a seat of the Udasi sect of Sikhs. Guru Ram Rai's seat is still here and a Mahantji is now the head of the Gurdwara.  Every year, Jhanda Mela (a fair) is held here on the 5th day of Holi in sacred memory of the revered Guru Ram Rai.

The construction of the Ram Rai Darbar was initiated by the Guru's wife Mata Punjab Kaur in 1676 and was completed in 1699 and is modeled on the tomb of the Mughal Emperor Jehangir. 

The walls of the Darbar are richly decorated with paintings on various subjects, such as the Mahabharat, the Gita, the Ramayana,Krishna leela.  Depiction of Noor Jahan, Heer-Ranjha, Laila-Majnu and some British notables can also be seen amongst the paintings.  They were painted in three phases, from early 17th century to the middle of the 19th century.  The Archaeological Survey of India has taken up the restoration of the Darbar Sahib's wall paintings done in the Mughal, Rajasthani and Kangra style of mural painting. They are a sight to behold.                 























Within the grounds of the Darbar, is the "dehra" of Mata Punjab Kaur. 










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